The Lake Rabun Hotel, built in 1922, was lovingly renovated last year by its new owner, who added a third story.

The Lake Rabun Hotel is a place to love, or to fall in love.

It took Gwen North just one look and she was committed.

Former President Jimmy Carter is said to have lusted for its rustic, one-of-a-kind furnishings.

Neighbors in the reclusive, deep-pocketed, old-money lake community in northeast Georgia now profess love for their revived gathering space.

Finders, keepers

North and her partner in their Delaware import/export business were on a Thanksgiving getaway in 2007 at next-lake-over Lake Burton. A Realtor knew that North, who had restored property and owned an antiques shop, was looking for another project.

Within the first 15 minutes of stepping foot on the property, North said, she was hooked.

“This thing has sort of a life of its own. It’s taken hold,” she said.

Starting last February, she got to work in the unheated, un-air-conditioned two-story mountain lake lodge, which had fallen into abject disrepair. Working with an architect and designer, and crews from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., they lifted the building to work on the foundation; raised the roof and added a third floor; added stone pillars, a new waterfall and a koi pond; and renovated much of the interior carefully so that it retained its look of old wood and stone.

Surprising the neighbors at this lake community, the hotel met its deadline to open before the Fourth of July.

What’s to love?

The hotel lobby features its original stone fireplace with granite arch above, part of the massive stone chimney that also includes an outdoor fireplace and several cavities for birds and plants.

Founder/builder Augustus Andreae brought his style from Europe. He had owned much of the land that’s now underwater, and Georgia Power traded it for land above the waterline. He built many of the walls and houses still there, including the hotel in 1922, and founded the tiny town of Lakemont.

Among touches North added, some in keeping with the period and some such as heat for the benefit of modern lodgers, are a new cedar bar with cedar stools; a raised ceiling in the dining room; and light fixtures and clothes racks commissioned from a local artisan using found pieces of wood.

The result is in contention for a spot on National Geographic Traveler’s April 2009 Annual Stay List. As for the original hotel furnishings that caught President Carter’s eye: The story goes that the president wanted to take the 22 pieces of commissioned rhododendron and laurel settees, chairs, benches and tables to the White House. But apparently the then-owner loved them too much to grant the request. Some of the pieces slipped away, but North tracked down most and reacquired them at auction.

Got anything to eat?

Local chef Chris Bolton got his start nearby at Glen Ella Springs Country Inn, then went into sales for a short time. North heard about him and invited him to bring his culinary talents and locally grown philosophy to the hotel kitchen.

“What I like about Chris is he showed up in person” at the market, said Joe Gatins, founder of Simple Homegrown, a farmers market and organization in Clayton. Bolton goes there to buy produce and arrange with local farmers to provide what the hotel needs.

Both say North’s and Bolton’s efforts have paid off.

“The people here are really excited about this place,” Fran Gatins said.

The menu changes weekly, and sometimes more often than that. Using local organic products when possible, Bolton produces dishes such as Lowcountry Shrimp Boil with wild Georgia shrimp, heirloom tomato salads, local figs stuffed with goat cheese and drizzled with local honey, and sweet potato creme brulee.

Prices are midrange: appetizers $7-$13; entrees $17-$30; desserts $6-$9; and the wine list, by both glass and bottle, is extensive.

Special events including wine dinners have attracted a loyal group already.

The hotel closed for a seasonal break following the big New Year’s Eve bash.

Plans are to reopen on Valentine’s Day with a wine dinner featuring Bill Arbios, winemaker from boutique vineyard Arbios Cellars in the Alexander Valley, Calif. A week later there’s a Mardi Gras party. The calendar for the rest of the year includes cooking and painting lessons, more wine dinners and a murder mystery weekend. In warmer weather, there’s patio dining as well.

The restaurant is closed on Monday and Tuesday nights. If you find yourself there through a long weekend, check out Tallulah Gorge Grill (dinner Thursdays-Mondays) or Isabelle’s on the Gorge (dinner Tuesdays, Thursdays-Saturdays).

Other reasons to love it

Outdoor sports and activities are plentiful, from fishing to kayaking to hiking. The hotel staff can direct you to the Chattooga for rafting or help you rent a pontoon boat on the lake across the street. There’s a public golf course nearby and plenty of fly-fishing spots.

Hikes and other activities are offered periodically at Tallulah Gorge State Park.

The relaxed atmosphere in the hotel allows guests to do as much or as little as they like. There are two pianos, and occasionally on weekends a pianist will entertain. There are board games, a cozy bar and fine dining.

For hotel guests, the hallway upstairs along the eight rooms holds a tableau of fresh cookies, fruit and beverages to enjoy inside or on the new balcony overlooking the grounds and lake.

And special events, including weddings and parties, may be arranged at the hotel or, for larger guest lists, at the new stone pavilion at lakeside.

Overall, the setting and the hotel are peaceful and serene. “I wanted to create a space where people could sort of back out of the world and reclaim their relationships with nature, the past and their loved ones and have some fun while doing that,” North said.

VALENTINE’S DINNER

Lake Rabun Hotel reopens for 2009 with a wine dinner on Valentine’s Day, $80 per person. Here’s the menu:

Appetizer: 2007 Praxis Viognier; fresh Maine lobster with tomato and chive relish

Soup: 2006 Praxis Pinot Noir; consomme of Pork with black-eyed peas, winter greens and pimiento

Salad: 2007 Praxis Lagrein; roasted local organic baby bok choy with a blueberry walnut chutney

Amuse Bouche: 2003 Praxis Syrah; seared Arctic char with lavender, sweet onion and honey

Entree: 2003 Arbios Cabernet Sauvignon; fire-grilled Black Angus filet of beef tenderloin with cherry and thyme

Dessert: 2006 Praxis Merlot; raspberry and dark chocolate torte